Про поезда. Агра-Варанаси-Гоа

sansannaa

25- 26 ноября 2013 года. 
Агра – Варанаси.

Приехали на вокзал. Вокзал переполнен людьми. Вокруг одни индусы, много индусов, много индусов на полу, много бездомных индусов. Мансур попросил своего друга проводить нас на поезд, он же приедет к нам в Варанаси чуть позже. Наш поезд пришел на 20 мин раньше и был риск, что и уедет он тоже раньше. Видно здесь так бывает. Поэтому мы бежали. Бежали через индусов, по обшарпаным платформам и лестницам. Я боялась потерять всех из виду и отчачно тащилась за всеми. Потом мы долго искали свой вагон. Адреналинчик прилил когда мы увидели первые вагоны – самый экономный вариант. Мы не знали в каком вагоне поедем и как в реальности выглядит наш класс, поэтому увиденное вполне могло быть нашим вагоном. И это было страшно. Люди вылезали буквально из всех щелей, окон как таковых не было, вместо стекол были решетки и от туда торчали руки, двери в тамбур были настеж раскрыты, и люди стояли буквально на голове друг у друга. Все они жадно пожирали глазами белых людей с рюкзаками. Мне в голову приходит аналогия с фильмом wallking dead. Нет нет, мне очень нравятся индусы и я отношусь к ним с подчтеным уважением, но когда определенный класс смотрит на тебя как на невиданное животное, то возникает вполне естественный страх. Это первое впечатление. Сейчас я понимаю, что при жесткой необходимости, я бы вполне  приспособилась и к тому вагону, т.к. индусы очень милый и приветливый народ в глубине своей, даже скромный, и если они и смотрят на тебя с интересом, это совсем не означает что они способны причинить тебе вред, скорее всего ты просто им понравилась.

 

Теперь я знаю, что вагоны бывают разных типов - самые трешовые, это те, билеты на которые стоят копейки. Туда забивается столько народу, сколько влезет, спят даже в тамбуре. Там нет кроватей. Как правило, там просто лавки. Следом идут слиперы разных типов. Они с полками, но туда тоже забиваются все до отвалу. Есть вагоны приличнее с 4мя полками – нижняя и верхняя, как у нас плацкарты, и с 6ю полками - нижняя, средняя и верхняя. Тут все расчитано по местам и спать у тебя на голове никто не будет, однако это стоит дороже и далеко не каждый индус из провинции может позволить себе такую роскошь. Еще по классике жанра есть куппе, которое стоит практически столько же, сколько билет на самолет. Плюс бонус – поезда-гостиницы, по стоимости космос, зато выглядит стильномодновиртуозно, спецом для европейцов.

 

Билеты на поезда это какая-то аброкадабра. Если бы не наш провожающий, мы бы наверно заблудились и ничего не нашли. На билетах все написано карандашом, кроме первой главной бумажки.Наш класс оказался нормальным. С нормальными соседями, ими оказались два спокойных приличных индуса, не говорящих по-английски. Внутри все так же как в нашем плацкарте в России, только со шторками, розетками, зеркальцем, кондиционером и вентилятором на потолке:)

 

30 ноября – 2 декабря 2013 года. Варанаси – Гоа. 

В поезде до Гоа нам повезло с соседями. Больше всего, после хауса и грязи в Варанаси, мы опасались нечистоплотных попутчиков. Среди индусов таких оказалось большинство. В городе Варанаси, про который я еще напишу отдельно, люди будто уже очень давно забыли или вовсе никогда не знали, что такое «убираться», «чистота», «порядок», «любить свой город» и тд. Я никогда не видела такого, даже ни в одном городе Индии, где мы побывали за неделю. После 5 дней в сплошной грязи и пыли, мы очень нуждались в покое, отдыхе, чистоте. Мы так боялись, что с нами поедут люди, которые будут крошить, бросать мусор, расбрасывать вещи, плеваться жевательным табаком... К нам же подсели два молодых парня и девушка из Израля. Мы сказали "привет белые люди!". Они засмеялись. Я никогда не думала, что буду так рада евреям. 

Два месяца они уже путешествуют по Индии, сейчас как и мы едут на Гоа. Они прожили в Ришикеше 2 недели, что очень вдохновило мое воспаленное воображение. Конечно, я сразу прониклась ими, яростно желая побывать в Ришикеше и пожить там хотя бы неделю. Сразу после знакомства Нево достал чалом и предложил нам раскурить его. Это было очень мило с его стороны) Они научили нас играть в карточную игру,название которой я конечно же забыла, и угощали шоколадной пастой и печеньем. Мы, в ответ, на ближайшей остановке спрыгнули на платформу и купили всем колы. 2 дня нам предстояло проехать вместе от Северной Индии навстресу Южной, прямиком в рай, к океану, где пальмы, кокосы и жара. 

В этот раз мы ехали в плацкарте с 6ю основными полками и 2мя сбоку.Мы болтали все больше о путешествиях. Нево уже несколько лет ведет такой образ жизни, перебиваясь с одной работы на другу, зарабатывая деньги и на пол года уезжая бродить по миру. У него есть альбом для рисования, на страницах которого иллюстрации тех мест, которые он посетил. Он аккуратно вырисовывает какие-то картинки, пейзажи, места, которые отпечатались в его памяти ярким пятном. Вот и сейчас он делает легкие штрихи карандашем по белоснежной бумаге, на которой броско рождаются очертания поезда. Очень интересно было слушать его рассказы про разные миры. 

Мы вообще много говорили – между собой, с нашими попутчиками, с самими собой, такой некий внутренний диалог на заданную тему. В поезде намного ярче ощущается это настроение путешествия. Именно тогда я поняла, что я уже часть этого, сменяя с рюкзаком за спиной уже третий город в Северной Индии. Именно когда ты едешь в поезде и нигде более ярко не ощущается этот дух передвижения, слияния с повседневностью городов и стран. И этот легкий дискомфорт, без особых удобств поезда, не ультра и не делюкс, даже пару тараканов пробежало на моих глазах, и мучающий голод, так как мы не ели целый день, опасаясь местной поездовой еды, а наша быстро сошла на нет, грязные туалеты, а что бы покурить надо открывать дверь в тамбуре и курить на улицу, внутри же лютый холод от беспрерывно работающих кондиционеров, как будто ты находишься не на Юге Индии, а в Аркктике – это все не мешало, это все  рождало о щ у щ е н и е. Ощущение Индии, твоего движения, того, что ты не сидишь, нетнет, ты что-то делаешь, ты жертвуешь своим излюбленным комфортом ради расширения своих границ воспроятия жизни, и куда-то стремишься, и что-то важное остается в тебе, что-то непременно меняется, что-то ищется и находится, что-то рождается не во “вне”, а “внутри” и все это –увиденное, услышанное, встреченное – оно все остается, растекается по тебе, впитывается в каждую клетку твоего сознательного и бессознательного, пополняя тебя, как диковинный песок хрустальную вазу. Одним словом - сплошная лирика эти поезда.

Вышли мы на Тивиме, проснувшись в 4 утра, что бы не пропустить свою пятиминутную остановку, и десятки раз спросили у всех, когда же Тивим, не проехалил ли мы его. В Тивим поезд подкатил в 8 утра, а не в 5, как это обычно и бывает, с задержкой в 3 часа – обычная история для индийских поездов. 

По приезду же я сразу накинулась на еду, как голодный маугли, будто не ела неделю. С едой у меня особые отношения, люблю поесть:)

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